Armature

Aluminium wire

The type of wire we will be using is 3mm / 1/8 ” inch aluminum wire for the structure and 1.5mm / 1/16″ inch aluminum wire to wrap around the main 3mm wire and to attach it to the structure. This thin wire can be replaced by common thin wire to tide up fences, available almost everywhere.

2m in length of the thick wire and another 3 m of the thin one should be enough for one figure at 1/4 scale. Consider buying more in case you think you will do more figures, this way we can save money in travel expenses.

Hardware stores like Bunnings in Australia and NZ sell 1.5 mm / 1/16″ inch thickness aluminum wire or thin fences wire. The 3mm / 1/8 ” inch wire can be found in art suppliers or the same sculpting suppliers previously mentioned. We also sell it in the studio shop, HERE.

Below is a video to get an idea of the thickness and types of aluminium wire in the market.

Using the wire we already bought, doing the armature should be very easy. However, first, make sure we get the measurement right. We are working a 1/4 scale, this means that the figure we are building will be 45 cm / 18 inch tall standing.

So let’s start building the armature by taking  120 cm / 47 inch length of the thickest wire and folding it through the middle to have a 60cm double wire. Please do not cut the connection where we fold it; leave it as it is. We need the armature to be 60 cm long. We should have extra wire we can cut away at any time.

Counting from the top down, find the middle point of the figure at 22.5 cm / 88 inch (This is also the pubis level and the insertion of the head of the femur). Once we find it, make an opening in T section. The opening should be 6 cm / 2,4 inch and no more. 

Once we finish, DOUBLE CHECK to ensure the opening is still at a 22.5cm / 88 inch distance from the top.

All you need to do now is attach the armature securely to the stand. Ensure it is firmly fixed—this is crucial for stability. Typically, we use thin wire, tying it in several loops in different directions to guarantee a strong connection.

YOU ARE NOW READY TO ROLL!! ENJOY!!

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Extra tips for Materials & tools you might need.

Plasticine or oil-based clay

Such as NSP Medium, Monsterclay Medium, or similar sculpting clays, are ideal for this work. It’s important to choose a clay that is not too soft to ensure better control and detail during sculpting.

These materials are widely available from suppliers around the world. In New Zealand and Australia Barnes is the most common supplier and various art supply stores. However, be aware that local art supply shops often charge higher prices compared to specialized suppliers. We sell same quality plasticine in the studio Shop as well for a competitive price. Check it out HERE.

When sourcing materials in other countries, look for similar suppliers or online options that cater to sculptors and model makers. Always check the consistency and firmness of the clay to suit your project’s requirements.

Something to measure

This could be calipers or as simple as a small piece of paper with the head size of the scale we are using. You will see me using this often. I found this the easiest way to keep track of proportions.

Sculpting Tools

Basic tools are perfectly fine for starting out. However, if you plan to continue sculpting in the future, it may be worth investing in higher-quality tools. Keep in mind that tools designed for ceramics are generally not ideal for sculpting.

Javier primarily uses tools sourced from international suppliers. For instance, his stainless steel spatulas are from Alec Tiranti in London, known for their high quality. Another excellent option is Compleat Sculptor in New York, which offers a wide variety of tools, including carving tools and specialized Italian tools. Both suppliers are highly reputable and cater to sculptors seeking durable and professional-grade equipment.

Another practical thing to do is build your own tools, it is quite simple and simply perfect for smaller works. Have a look to the following tutorial to make your own tools using guitar strings.

A Lazy Susan or rotating base

Rotating your work effortlessly make sculpting much easier. In Europe, you can find Lazy Susans designed for screens or tabletops at stores like IKEA. In New Zealand, they’re available at hardware stores like Bunnings. In the United States, similar options are available at hardware stores, art supply shops, and pottery suppliers.

If you buy the mechanism instead, simply attach a sturdy piece of board to each side, as shown in the video, and you’ll have a functional rotating table. This DIY approach is simple and cost-effective, and it can be customized to fit your specific needs. Many options are available, so finding one to suit your budget and project should be easy.

Heating your clay

This can make it easier to work with, especially during colder seasons. One option is to use your kitchen oven. Set it to the lowest temperature, around 40°C / 100°F, and place the clay on baking paper. Leave it in the oven for about 30 minutes, then check its consistency. Be cautious not to let the temperature get too high, as this can cause the clay to melt. Another option is to use a microwave. Heat the clay at maximum power for about one minute, check it, and repeat if needed. Keep in mind that microwaves heat from the inside out, so overheating can occur quickly if left too long. Both methods require careful monitoring to ensure the clay reaches a workable consistency without damage. Testing with a small amount of clay first is always a good idea.

Plumb line 

A thread or a cord with a heavy thing attached to one end it is all you need.. A simple key or something similar will do. The Plumb line will be a very simple but efective tool we will use quite often, specially at the beginning when setting up the pose.